I feel so mean telling my fellow intrepid travellers what they should/shouldn’t be doing in the Maremma.

So don’t take these don’ts as hard and fast orders. I’ve lived in the Maremma for five years now. I’d like to think I know my stuff and I’m not one to keep paradisaical holiday destination to myself, hence the website.

If you were clutching at straws, you could say these don’ts are my really forceful way of making sure you experience everything the Maremma has to offer. In other words, I’m doing you a very backhanded and somewhat loose favour!

Oh and if you have no idea what I’m rabbiting on about, read Part 1: The Dos and Don’ts in the Maremma, and it will all make perfect sense.

1. Dont stick to the tourist sights
We all know the Saturnia Hot Springs are amazing and Pitigliano is magnificent, but there are so many other sights that are just as beautiful, but have half the tourists.

Just off the top of my head, I could recommend Cala Violina, the mind blowingly beautiful beach near Castiglione della Pescaia, where the sand is so soft and clean that it sings like the strings of a violin when you walk on it. Then there’s Montemerano with its idyllic piazzas and courtyards, Santa Fiora’s hidden Garden of Eve, complete with carp pool, and the Parco della Maremma Wildlife Reserve.

2. Don’t eat off tourist menus
Even if you don’t speak a word of Italian, you should avoid translated menus at all costs. It’s not the end of the world if you do walk into a restaurant and they hand you an English menu. It just means your dish won’t be as authentic as it could be.

Very few Maremman restaurants outside of the main spots, Grosseto, Massa Marittima, Pitigliano and Saturnia, have English menus, so you’re usually assured good grub at a reasonable price when you eat anywhere else. And interpreting Italian menus isn’t as hard as you might think. Just look out for:

  • Cingiale: wild boar
  • Acquacotta: vegetable soup
  • Lepre: hare
  • Ragu: a thick and meaty pasta sauce
  • Pappardelle: a type of pasta
  • Ricotta: ricotta  🙂
    .

3. Don’t hope for a shopping spree
Italy and clothes, the two are pretty much mutually exclusive, but the Maremma isn’t the place to be if you’re looking to scoop up some designer bargains. I still remember the first time my very Australian siblings visited me here. The shock when I explained to them that neither Diesel nor Zara were within their reach… ah, the look on their faces still makes me laugh!

That said, you can still shop in the Maremma. Massa Marittima, Follonica and Grosseto all have a good handful of stores, while if you’re anywhere else in the province you can pick up some very thoughtful souvenirs. Think handmade silk scarves and cotton dresses, ceramics, wooden chopping boards and, of course, homemade conserves and sauces. The Maremma is, after all, a rural country destination and simple treasures like these are part of its charm.

… here are three more don’ts because as usual I’ve waffled on too much:

4. Don’t expect every beach/sign/attraction to be clearly marked: The Maremmani have a somewhat lax attitude to signage. Most of the attractions located outside of the cities aren’t marked, but if you can’t find them, and you probably won’t, just ask. The locals are always more than happy to show you in the right direction.

5. Don’t hide out in your agriturismo: There are some amazing places in the Maremma. Beyond your hotel pool and deckchair are hidden hot spring oases, spa centres, vineyards, horse riding schools, 3 star Michelin restaurants… the list is truly endless.

6. Don’t miss out on the traditions: The Maremma won’t be quaint, charming and authentic forever. I have the feeling that the province will eventually go the way of the rest of Italy – swapping its traditions for tourists, so enjoy it while you can.

It’s not often that you can say you’ve experienced how another country really lives, eats and celebrates!

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