I woke up this morning to the sound of men putting up the Christmas lights. And even though we’re still a month away from Christmas 2014, I decided they were a sign that it was time to get into the holiday spirit.
Christmas markets are a European tradition. In fact, most Europeans go absolutely crazy for them. Italy’s best are up in the north near Venice and Trento, where the cold and the snow create an unforgettable atmosphere.
I’m Australian, so as far as I’m concerned Christmas is Santa in a pair of shorts and a few shrimp on the barbecue on a 30°C day, but I still have a healthy respect for snow-dusted trees and egg nog.
In the Maremma, Christmas markets are a fairly new tradition, but they are a fantastic, one-stop-shop of entertainment, shopping and food. Most are set up well before Christmas, so you don’t have to be here on the holiday itself to enjoy them.
The basics
This isn’t your average market. The best Christmas markets are made up of sweet-looking wooden cabins and Christmas lights. They aren’t selling mass produced rubbish, second-hand goods or fruit, but handmade souvenirs and local specialities.
This is the place to get beautiful Christmas tree ornaments and decorations. One year, I bought a gorgeous potpourri glass ornament shaped like a candied lolly. Another year I found a handmade set of figurines for my Nativity Scene.
Italians consider Christmas to be the most important holiday of the year, so they really go all out celebrating it. In the Maremma, the focus is on artisanal and handcrafted decorations, so you’ll see a lot of wood carving, candle and soap making and felt toys and trinkets.
These stalls aren’t cheap. An artisan bauble will cost you around €10, but they’re something you can keep for a lifetime.
The eats
Christmas markets aren’t just about the stalls. Some of the best seasonal food and wine is also on offer. Mulled wine and roasted chestnuts are a given. Always buy your chestnuts freshly roasted from the sellers who will scoop them off the fire and into a paper bag for you. You don’t want the prepackaged ones as they’ll be soggy.
Italian mulled wine is more alcoholic and less sweet. They don’t tend to butcher it will sugar, but accent the flavours with a little bit of cinnamon. It’s usually served in special Christmas market mugs that you can then take home as souvenirs.
As for what else is on offer, that depends on the town. Usually someone will be making nutella crepes to order and selling freshly made nougat and nut brittle. But you can also find bowls of thick chickpea soup, platters of local cheeses and cold cuts, sweet and savoury ravioli, polenta, cakes and grilled meats. Unlike the trinkets, market food is always ridiculously cheap.
The fixin’s
Christmas markets provide fun for the whole family, so there’s plenty to see and do while you eat and shop.
My personal favourite is the Nativity Scene display – these are handmade Nativity Scenes contributed by local artists and displayed loving throughout the market. An alternative to this is usually a living Nativity Scene, where gorgeous little children dress up like the various figures and stand as still as they can like a painting come to life.
You’re sure to hear some very kitsch folk music and usually watch some very skilled locals battle it out at tombola (bingo) or briscola (an Italian card game). And there might even be a mini train!
The best
- Magliano in Toscana – The home of the amazing Morellino di Scansano throws opens its cellars with plenty of wine-themed food and gifts from 19/12-21/12.
- Grosseto – My absolute top pick has everything I blogged about plus a petting zoo and a horse and carriage. It’s on at the Piazza della Palma from 6/12 to Christmas Eve.
- Sorano – The most original and artisan of the three. Come for the beautiful handcrafted Nativity Scene display. On from 19/12 all the way to the New Year.