Summer is nearly over, but that doesn’t mean you have to kiss the coast goodbye. Many of the Maremma’s most popular seaside destinations continue to draw tourists throughout autumn and into the beginning of winter. Castiglione della Pescaia is one of them. This Etruscan port turned cosmopolitan resort town is called the ‘Switzerland of the Maremma’ for its impeccable environmental pedigree. Its chic streets are the playground of celebrities like Sofia Loren and Robert De Niro.
See
When the weather begins to cool, the locals skip the beach and visit the area’s amazing nature park and gorgeous shops. Castiglione della Pescaia sits at the foot of Diaccia Botrona – a nature park that’s home to the Maremma’s incredible flamingo population. The park is guarded by the Casa Rossa, a monumental red palazzo that is part museum and part theatre complex. You can organise canoe tours of the nature park and catch the odd concert at the Casa Rossa throughout the year.
If you are reading this and the weather is nice, head directly for Le Rocchette, located outside of Castiglione in the direction of Grosseto. This stretch of beach was voted Italy’s most beautiful and pristine for 2015.
Do
Castiglione no longer possesses any historical monuments. But it was the muse for one of the three ‘Fathers of the Italian Language’, Italo Calvino. Calvino used the area as inspiration for his novel Mr Palomar and is buried in a monumental mausoleum in the town’s cemetery.
You can expect the lustre of the Etruscan empire (7th century BC) in nearby Vetulonia. The city of jewels, as it was called, has an archaeological site where you can see the outline of homes and a Roman road, as well as the far more impressive town museum, which features all the treasures from tombs discovered in the area.
Eat
By and far the best restaurant in Castiglione is the Michelin-starred Trattoria Toscana. This is famous French chef Alain Ducasse’s only Italian foray and serves Tuscan classics at a price that is surprisingly reasonable considering its one-star status.
Naturally, Castiglione is famous for its seafood. The town’s restaurants buy the day’s catch from stalls set up along the port. These are run by the fishermen themselves and promise the best and freshest local fish, mollusks and shellfish.
If you’re in the mood for pizza, head to Pizzeria Pic Nic. I visited it recently and really enjoyed their Napoli style pizzas and calzones with some great Italian beers for a steal.
You can party before and after dinner at the many bars the line the main strip. The locals usually have a Spritz (Aperol and a dry white wine) for aperitivo and a digestif like amaretto or limoncello afterwards. You can also get away with ordering a mojito – currently the Maremma’s go-to cocktail.
Getting here
Castiglione can be reached fairly easily by getting off at the train stations in Grosseto or Orbetello and catching the bus. You can find out about times and buses on the Tiemme website.
For more about Castiglione della Pescaia, check out my day trip guide in Italy Magazine.