Terme di Saturnia

The Terme di Saturnia Spa Complex is the playground of the world’s rich and famous. Celebrities have been coming here for years, and it’s possibly the principal reason why Saturnia is the most famous city in the Maremma.

Luckily us mere mortals can also spend a day at the spa, for a price, of course.

Aside from a few exercise pools, all of these are filled with the warm spring water that flows beneath the spa complex.

As gross as it sounds, this water contains thermal plankton. You can’t see these little microscopic critters, but, together with sulfur, which is also present in abundance, they’re said to work miracles on minor skin diseases, acne, stomach disorders, circulatory system inflammations and respiratory problems.

For an additional price, those looking for the ultimate pampering experience can treat themselves to a day in the complex’s sauna, jacuzzi and hydro-fitness swimming pool, or leave themselves in the capable hands of the spa’s masseurs and beauty therapists.

The spa complex also boasts a very fancy restaurant, golf course and sports facility, and doubles as a hotel for those who just can’t get enough pampering.

I have been to this spa many times, and I do recommend it. But I have to admit, I don’t always go here when I want to enjoy Saturnia’s hot springs.

It’s a once in a lifetime experience and the price is pretty reasonable, considering the luxury inside. I would definitely go there if you have a perchance for spas. It’s one of the best in the world.

Which spa is which?

There is a lot of confusion online about the Saturnia hot springs. In fact, TripAdvisor has about 15 different entries.

There are only two places where you can enjoy the Saturnia hot springs:

The hot water flows from its underground source, which sits below the Terme di Saturnia spa complex. You can swim here, but you have to pay. There are a number of pools and waterfalls here.

The water leaves the spa complex and flows down stream, through a few fields and other rivers until it reaches a natural waterfall. This is the Cascate del Mulino. The water has carved natural pools here. You can also swim here. It’s the most scenic site and the one you see most commonly online. It is free.

The water flows into a field from here and disappears.

a few snap shots of the Terme di Saturnia to inspire:

everything you need to know before you visit:

how hot is it?: the water gushes from the source at 37°C (98.6°F), but it has dropped a few degrees by the time it reaches the lower pools.

cost: Monday to Friday: adults: €26, children (if they are shorter than 1 metre): €13

Weekends and holidays: adults: €31, children (if they are shorter than 1 metre): €13

Afternoon discounted tickets: €21

extras: Sun bed: €7

Umbrella: €4

Towel rental: €5

Slippers: €1

swimming at the source: the Terme di Saturnia spa actually sits on the source of the hot springs – i.e where the hot water gushes out from.

They have built a giant pool around it, which is normally only open to hotel guests.

You can swim there for an extra €5, but you’re only allowed in the pools and not on any of the sundecks.

beauty spa: there is a beauty spa on site where you can get massages, use the jacuzzi and have other beauty treatments. Check the spa website for prices and to book ahead.

opening hours: from November 11 to March 31: 9.30am-5pm, with discounted afternoon tickets available from 1pm.

From April 1 to October 31: 9.30am-7pm, with discounted afternoon tickets available from 2pm.

booking: you don’t need to book ahead at the spa unless you are in a large group. There is always room even during high season.

kids: there are shallow kids pools.

night swimming: on rare occasions, the spa complex is open at night, usually in summer and usually around Ferragosto, August 15. Check the website for more information.

best times to visit: you’re going to have an amazing time regardless of when you visit, but if you want to avoid the crowds, come on a weekday in autumn, winter and early spring. It can get cold in winter, but the water more than makes up for it.

best times to visit in summer: you’re in the Maremma in peak tourist season, so what can you do to get a little swimming space? Come early in the morning as it’s opening to secure the best spots.

parking: there is free parking on site.

how to get into the Terme di Saturnia spa:

As you get closer to Saturnia, you will see a massive closed gate guarding a sprawling golf course. That is the Terme di Saturnia hotel and golf course, which is not what you’re looking for. Keep driving down the main road and follow the road as it curves right and past the Cascate del Mulino hot springs.

You’ll see a petrol station, restaurant and an agriturismo on your left. Keep driving. A little way past that is a small sign pointing you down a tiny side road. That is the entrance to the spa.

Head down the tiny side road, ignoring the parked cars that line the road and turn right into the massive car park! It’s free.

showers, toilets and change rooms: there are separate women’s and men’s changing rooms after you pass the entrance. They have bathrooms, showers and hairdryers, as well as lockers for you to lock up all your valuables. These lockers are free.

safety: there are lifeguards stationed all over the spa complex, but they aren’t the most reliable, tending to prefer to chat up pretty ladies and admire themselves in their aviators, so always keep an eye on your children.

Pregnant women and young children are not advised to swim in the Saturnia hot springs, so always ask your GP before you take a dip. There is also some safety information at the entrance, which you should read.

For everyone else, it’s recommended you take a break from the water every 20 minutes. Dehydration is a real risk when bathing in such hot water, so make sure you drink plenty of water!

bring flip flops: always a good idea when you’re walking on wet surfaces, to and from the pools and the changing rooms. You can also buy them at the spa for €1.

don’t forget: sunscreen and a towel. You have to pay extra to use the sundecks and umbrellas, but you can sit on the ample grass with a towel for free.

a note about jewellery: if your jewellery isn’t pure gold or silver (or even if it is), take it off before you get in the water. Otherwise it will turn green/black. Trust me, it’s happened to me too many times.

Probably not a good idea to wear your best bathers either. The water can damage the fabric.

eat and drink: the spa has a small bar with snacks, drinks, sandwiches and ice cream. It’s expensive and pretty rubbish. Technically there is no rule against bringing in your own food from home if you be discreet.

There’s also a fancy bar and Michelin-starred restaurant on site if you want to splurge.

Unfortunately you can’t go in and out of the spa, so you can’t pop over to Saturnia for lunch and then return in the afternoon.

the smell: Saturnia’s hot springs flow with sulphuric water. Sulphur = egg smell. So be prepared. It doesn’t smell as bad as it used to. Your bathers and skin will stink a little afterwards, but a hot shower should get rid of the smell.

other gross stuff: the water is a bit slimy, but there are no red worms like those you’ll see at the Cascate del Mulino. The walls of the pools might have a little grey slime on them though.

health benefits: the slime you see around the edges is actually a grey mud mix that is very good for your skin. The gloop is also used to make very expensive beauty products, which you can buy at reception.

The water itself is said to cure respiratory diseases, skin problems and circulatory issues.

more information: www.termedisaturnia.it/en

don’t want to pay?

If you, like me and most of Manciano’s locals, want to enjoy Saturnia’s hot springs for free in a veritable natural paradise, then you can’t go past the Cascate del Mulino.

They’re within walking distance of the spa back along the SP10, the main road.

Still want more?

Check out our mini online guide with everything you need to know about the Saturnia hot springs

find out more

how to get to the Terme di Saturnia hot springs:

by car:

The Terme di Saturnia spa complex is located just outside of Saturnia.

To reach the complex, follow the Strada Provinciale Follonata/SP10.

You’ll see a petrol station, restaurant and an agriturismo on your left. Keep driving. A little way past that is a small sign pointing you down a tiny side road. That is the entrance to the spa.

Head down the tiny side road, ignoring the parked cars that line the road and turn right into the massive car park! It’s free.

by public transport:

The closest train station to the spa complex is Albinia, followed by Orbetello. You can also get here by bus from Grosseto train station.

From Grosseto train station, the 8/G will take you directly to Saturnia.

From Albinia and Orbetello, you will need to catch the 41/P to Manciano and catch another bus to Saturnia.

From Manciano, the 17/P, E01 and E02 will all take you to Saturnia.

The stop you need to get off at is called SATURNIA TERME and then walk down the main road until you get to the spa.

To plan your trip, check out the Tiemme website.

Beware that public transport is infrequent, so always plan your journey well in advance and travel in the morning before 9am. Timetables will change on Saturdays.

No buses run on public holidays or Sundays.

map:

Terme di Saturnia
Via della Follonata, 58014 Saturnia, Manciano GR

what people are saying on TripAdvisor:

The hotel is very nice. Situated just under the old town of Saturnia and a 2 kilometers from the famous “Cascata del Mulino”. It was renovated and expanded, from an ancient petit hotel. The principal pool stands just over the thermal spring. The water is very clear and has some algae floating. Very natural. It has dry sauna and Hammam. The environment is wide and has many armchairs. Very good facilities. Beside I dont play golf, it has a nice court.
In general terms the staff is excellent; at the front desk, the cleaners, at the restaurant and at the bars.
The Restaurant is expensive and medium quality. Has a bad ratio quality/price. And sometimes the maitre puts pressure on you, with impatience, to decide what are you going to order.
The only thing that is not homogeneous are the masseurs. Some are very good and others do not do their best in the massages. Try to find out very well who is doing your massage and how good is she.

Patrizio / 7/04/18

Such a let-down was hard to imagine when we arrived recently. We had booked for the Thermal Baths which are part of this hotel and we therefore drove up the gated hotel entrance. I buzzed and explained, the person who responded said something which could not be heard as the sound quality was dreadful. When I questioned their response they opened the gate and slammed the phone down. Nice. We then asked a hotel car park man and he directed us, we needed another road as the baths have a different road. So we followed his directions and with alot of difficulty we found the right place. NO signposts. We parked in the alloted car park and then it took us 15 minutes to find the right door!!!! Having debated leaving we stuck with it and phoned reception for help, she came out and showed us the way. Well luckily the pool was FANTASTIC and an amazing experience but the structure seems to be falling apart and really needs alot of repair as well as some new and trained staff.
Despite the water I vowed never to return. Shame.

Simon F / 09/01/18

Just an amazing place .I have been going to the Terme for many many years and I can only recommend it. THE WATER is magical , you will understand what I mean once you are in it ,believe me you will even get used to the sulfur smell .I drive a few hundred miles to get to the Terme and each time a swim in « the pool «is the first thing i do . The hotel staff is professional and kind with a touch “ à L Italienne” . A special + for Davide the bar tender and the concierge desk . As for the spa , it just is 🙂 They have a large range of products and beauty treatments a well as holistic treatments (my favorite ).You should absolutely book a treatment with the dottoressa Laura Quinti , it is an absolute must . Last but certainly not least , the Hotel is very dog friendly so you can bring your pet along ,I always do .I guess that it is also one of the reasons I love this place so much . I often try to go there alone ( with my dog) for 2 or 3 days to really rest & de stress:)
You will get a room on the ground floor with a big garden to let your pet run around , and you can go for longer walks with your dog on the hotel grounds , between treatments .

Sylvia / 06/11/17

This thermal pool is built over a natural sulfuric water spring with a temperature of around 37 degrees Celsius. It is quite sizable so it seldom gets crowded and its incrediblly clear water allows the rocky bottom to be fully visible.
Besides the sulfuric smell, the pool is thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing.

Lorenzo / 01/08/17

My husband and I went to this spa as a part of our honeymoon. When we first arrived, we had no clue how to get to the front entrance. There is no signage indicating how to get to the spa. Especially for a place that allows non-hotel guests to use spa/thermal pool facilities. So we parked our car in the grass along the perimeter of the building and had to enter the building where employee’s do and where they keep the garbage! So after trying navigate the building ourselves trying to find the spa, we had to ask for help. Finally get there and we were immediately escorted to our room where we got the couples massage (energetic massage). The massage was perfectly fine and made me relax. However, the room was ice cold and the masseuses are not shy about exposing parts of your body as youre turning over. So after our massage as a part of our package that we had, we were wondering where the towels were that we could use for the thermal pool. The masseuses refused to give us either a robe or a towel to use and told us to talk to the customer service personnel at the spa front desk (we are travelers on our honeymoon, no where on their website does it say we need to supply those things). So here I am under my winter coat in my bathing suit walking through the hotel. So we talk to the people at the spa front desk. They told us our only option was to go BUY A TOWEL OR ROBE FROM THE GIFT SHOP IF THEY HAVE ANY. Great hospitality right? After explaining to them that we are not going to do that, we demanded that we can at least have a towel so we can dry off and try to enjoy ourselves here they give us robes after a lot of discussion about how we shouldn’t get them because we are not hotel guests. Again, great hospitality, right?

We ended up soaking in the thermal pool until it closed, and as we were trying to leave, we came up to a glass door that a security guard locked right in front of us so that we couldn’t go through the building to get to our car that was parked on the other side of the property. Hair still wet and a bad taste in my mouth from being treated like 2nd class citizens, we had to walk around the perimeter of the property in 30f degree weather to get to our car.

I have never had a bad spa experience until I came to this place (I go ALL the time in the USA) I was on our honeymoon and I went to our car and SWORE that I will never come near this place again and never recommend this place to anyone. The guests of this place have their noses stuck so far up in the air that they cannot see where they’re going and if you’re not a hotel guest you’re treated like a 2nd class citizen.

Halesberry / 1/1/17