It takes a lifetime to explore the Maremma. The province is the biggest in Tuscany. It’s a sheer monster of land, sand and sea and takes hours to cross from one side to the other.

I get a lot of emails from travellers who want to know what can’t be missed and what must be seen. So I put together my perfect 4 day holiday in the Maremma. Why 4 days, you ask? Well, any less and you wouldn’t see anything, and the quintessential Italian holiday always runs from Friday to Monday, so when in Rome…

My itinerary presumes you have a car, but if you don’t, you can still enjoy the beauty of the Maremma on public transport, it’ll just take you a while longer.

Day 1 – Hot spring heaven

Cascate del Mulino
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I wouldn’t be a proud Maremmana if I didn’t immediately recommend what’s in my backyard! The Terme di Saturnia hot springs are the Maremma’s number one tourist attraction.

Spend your first morning undoing all that travel stress at either the free Cascate del Mulino waterfalls or the very luxurious nearby spa complex. The former is open 24/7, while the latter closes at 7pm and costs €22.

Some of my guests are a little put off about the eggy smell, so if you have a delicate disposition, avoid the springs. I find the naturally 37°C warm water more than compensation for the smell!

After lunch, spend the rest of the day admiring Saturnia with its Etruscan and Roman ruins scattered about town or soak up the best views in the province in nearby Manciano.

Day 2 – Touring the tufo

Photo: Jane Drumsara via Flickr
Photo: Jane Drumsara via Flickr

A little more than 15-minutes away from Saturnia is what has to be the Maremma’s most beautiful city. Pitigliano is something out of a storybook. Carved from a dark, brown-spotted rock known as tufo, it is enchanting during the day and breathtaking at night.

Spend the morning wandering the streets. Pitigliano is famous for its museums and even more famous for its artist enclave with stores by the most acclaimed local artisans.

After lunch, stick your head into the Jewish ghetto. During the Renaissance, Pitigliano fostered a huge community of Jewish refugees. Centuries later their homes and shops were turned into an open air museum.

From here, it’s a skip and a hop to Sovana, a town so perfectly preserved, you’ll think  you’ve stumbled on to a movie set. And it’s the birthplace of the Maremma’s only pope!

Day 3 – Wandering in the wildness

parco-della-maremma

The weather mightn’t be beach beautiful anymore, but that shouldn’t stop you from making the 60 minute drive down to Grosseto’s Parco della Maremma. The largest nature park in the Maremma is a veritable wonderland of flora and fauna.

If you’re lazy like me, admire the park’s beach. If you squint, you can see Elba Island across the water. Then fawn over the majestic Vacche Maremmane – our local breed of cattle with its twisted horns. You might even see their masters, the butteri or cowboys too!

For the adventurous, there are 12 walking trails within the park, some of which can be travelled at night and stop at haunted watchtowers and abandoned castles.

End the day in Grosseto shopping and eating from a smorgasbord of traditional and fusion restaurants.

Day 4 – End it in style

massa-marittima-5

It’s your last day and I’m struggling to choose one recommendation! In my heart of heart, I think it’s worth the hour drive north to Massa Marittima. This city among the stars was once nicknamed Pisa and Siena’s little sister.

Like any little sister, she’s no less beautiful, just a bit smaller. Massa Marittima is the only Maremman city to have an air of Northern Tuscany. Its main piazza is a masterpiece of Renaissance affluence.

It’s shops and restaurants are amazing and even home to the two-star Michelin symphony that is Bracali. You could lose an entire day exploring the art and archaeology museums, visiting mini mines and magnificent churches.

Just don’t turn in early. Massa Marittima comes alive at night as its locals stroll down the main street listening to local musicians and eating street food (chestnuts or gelato) well into the evening!

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